New Balance 204L review

The New Balance 204L blossomed in the fertile ground prepared by the brand's earlier 530 SL x Miu Miu collaboration. Its viral popularity rose from meeting the demands of style-savvy people who:

• want a more affordable alternative to the Miu Miu sneaker
• got tired of dad shoes and chunky silhouettes
• recognized the new 'it' in the 204L's quiet luxury vibe

The narrow, elongated profile of this NB kick is not friendly towards wide feet and bunions. The New Balance 740 is more accommodating in that regard.

And if you are in search of a truly comfortable, well-cushioned sneaker for all-day wear, you will be better off with the New Balance 1000 or 2010, among other options.

The 204L's low-profile silhouette doesn't suggest abundant cushioning at first glance, but we were pleasantly surprised by the shock absorption it showed in our lab tests.

At 104 SA in the heel, it offers better impact protection than a typical lifestyle sneaker and is, in fact, twice as cushioned as the classic minimalist Adidas Samba OG (47 SA).

But please note that 104 SA is still a moderate result as far as truly well-cushioned shoes are concerned, and the 204L wouldn't be our first choice for all-day wear (that calls for at least 120 SA).

This New Balance kick also delivered a rather snappy underfoot experience thanks to its lively 59.3% energy return. Notably higher than average, it made the shoe responsive to our steps, keeping the ride light and easy on the feet.

Even though it looks and feels rather close to the ground, the NB 204L is not as low-stacked as the other minimalist sneakers in our lab.

According to our caliper measurement, the shoe has a fairly standard heel stack of 30.1 mm, which is on par with the category average.

Its forefoot stack also proved to be close to the sneaker average at 18.3 mm.

Even though it doesn't look that way, the 204L's platform height is actually identical to that of the ASICS EX89.

As flat as it seems from the outside, this NB kick has a tangible heel-to-toe drop on the inside.

With a traditional offset of 11.8 mm, it offers a comfortable, ergonomic placement that doesn't strain the foot or Achilles tendons.

Don't be fooled by the 204L's running-inspired aesthetic because its cushioning is nowhere near that of the modern cushioned New Balance running shoes.

Featuring a slab of basic EVA foam, the shoe's midsole is far from feeling cloud-like with a firm durometer reading of 45.0 AC.

As a minimalist sneaker, the NB 204L has a fairly flat profile.

However, its forefoot section is slightly raised and flexible, making heel-to-toe transitions feel buttery-smooth.

'The slim structure of '70s running shoes' was exactly our first impression of the New Balance 204L, and our gel mold confirmed it.

At only 90.3 mm in the widest part of its mold, the 204L proved to be a rather snug, close-fitting silhouette that caters to narrower feet.

If you have bunions or wide feet, we don't think sizing up would help with this particular NB shoe, as the larger size hardly improves the narrowness and instead elongates the profile even more.

But if you have medium-width feet, you will be pleased to learn that the 204L's toebox fit is not as restrictive as it may seem. Unlike Sambas, whose big toe box measures only 67.0 mm, the NB 204L offers as much as 71.1 mm, allowing a more decent wiggle room.

Thankfully, the shoe's vertical space is not limiting either, with a standard toebox space of 28.0 mm.

But please note that we are testing the shoe's mesh version in this review, and its all-suede colorways may fit more snugly and require a break-in period.

We were utterly impressed by the friction coefficient the New Balance 204L showed in our traction test! With an above-average result of 0.66 in the heel, this kick maintains grip on both dry and wet surfaces brilliantly!

The 204L features a moderately aggressive, 70s-influenced tread pattern that also climbs onto the edges of the midsole, nodding to the 327 design.

And if you ever owned a running shoe from the 2000s, you will likely recognize the wavy strike path on its outsole, which echoes the foot's natural transition from heel to toe.

Although it's not as extremely pliable as the Samba-like silhouettes, the 204L proved that it bends fairly easily with the foot.

Requiring a below-average force of 10.8N to bend by 30 degrees, it is on the flexible side of lifestyle sneakers.

Now this is where the New Balance 204L has a real edge over most other sneakers, minimalist or not. Weighing only 9.1 oz (258g) in a men's US size 9, it is one of the lightest casual sneakers we've ever tested!

This lightness matches the shoe's sleek vibe perfectly, helping it feel just as minimal as it looks.

P.S. We didn't get a chance to weigh the shoe's suede versions in the same size in our lab, but they do feel slightly heavier in hand.

If you need to style a spring/summer outfit, we highly recommend going for the 204L's mesh versions and reserving suede colorways like Mushroom Arid Stone for the colder seasons.

The old-school open mesh keeps the shoe's interior well ventilated, allowing thick billows of smoke to pass through its toebox. That earns the shoe a high, warm-weather-ready breathability score of 4 out of 5.

What's more, the shoe's thin, transparent internal lining pairs well with the open mesh to maintain airflow in the quarters.

A closer look at the mesh revealed the shoe's breathability formula: large pores + ultra-thin threads.

The 204L is a purely neutral sneaker, offering no arch support or any special stabilizing features.

But it needn't, really. Its moderate stack and multiple upper overlays provide inherent side-to-side support that suits most city dwellers. Except for folks with moderate-to-severe overpronation, who may find themselves sliding off the shoe's narrow platform.

The 204L is one of the least torsionally resistant sneakers we've tested, requiring very little force (9.7N) to twist it side-to-side. It bends and flows effortlessly with the foot, allowing it to be in charge of the movement.

Its heel counter, on the other hand, has moderate rigidity (3 out of 5), holding our heels securely without feeling overly rigid.

The 204L's sleek silhouette wouldn't be complete without a slim midsole profile, measuring only 104 mm at the widest point in its forefoot. That puts the 204L on the narrower side of sneakers, along with the Adidas Stan Smith and Handball Spezial.

The widest part of its heel, however, is notably narrower than average at 78.3 mm. That can make it feel limiting if you're used to chunkier heels of most contemporary sneakers.

If you're getting the mesh variant of this New Balance kick, expect only synthetic materials. However, the suede panels on other versions, like the Mushroom Arid Stone and the Timberwolf Lined, are genuine.

Despite the synthetic rand, much of the 204L’s toebox remains covered in exposed mesh. Testing its limits with a Dremel, we found that it's obviously not as wear-resistant as the suede options.

A noticeable wear and tear, therefore, lowered the shoe's toebox durability score to 3 out of 5.

Sadly, the mesh lining inside the shoe's collar didn't do any better. Torn by the sandpaper tip of our Dremel in a split second, it received a below-average score of 2 for heel padding durability.

But at least the 204L's outsole didn't leave us disappointed and stood up to the durability test just as well as most other sneakers. With a moderate dent of 0.9 mm, we expect its outsole to have a solid lifespan for a casual sneaker.

Our prediction is further supported by the shoe's robust outsole thickness of 3.9 mm.

A 4.1 mm insole lies between the foot and the firm EVA midsole, but it doesn't really make the shoe's step-in feel much plusher.

The insole is easily removable, but as you can tell from its slim shape, the shoe can hardly accommodate a custom orthotic.

Again, don't be misled by the word 'Running' written on its insole. It is a running-inspired sneaker and not a dedicated running shoe.

The 'N' logo proved to be reflective in low-light conditions.

A moderate tongue padding of 7.4 mm offers a good buffer from lace bits without adding much bulk to the shoe.

Curiously, the shoe's collar padding is nearly twice as thick as that of the tongue, offering a lot of comfort around the ankle.

The tongue of this sneaker is not attached to the upper on the sides, which can result in some slipping.

There is no pull tab in the 204L, but there is no need either.

Part of this New Balance kick's insane popularity in 2026 is attributed to its affordable price point. More specifically, it is touted as a more budget-friendly alternative to the high-end collab between the New Balance 530 SL and Miu Miu.

But in the context of similarly priced sneakers, we can also confirm that the 204L offers great value for money.