Our verdict

"Run Cortez, run!". The iconic Nike Cortez is back with the clean 23 Premium Leather. These sneakers show off an iconic 90s runner inspo that any Forrest Gump fan is bound to love. We found it quite comfortable, and we enjoyed every step of our wear tests thanks to its lightweight structure. But don't worry, despite this lower weight, this shoe features a really durable upper made with authentic leather. That being said, there's clearly a price to pay: it's not breathable at all!

Pros

  • Quite comfortable
  • Very durable upper materials
  • Authentic leather
  • Cool retro vibe
  • Iconic 90s runner inspo
  • Can be dressed up or down
  • Lighweight stucture

Cons

  • Not breathable
  • Outsole lacks durability

Audience verdict

N/A
Not enough reviews yet

Who should buy

Let the Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather conquer your wardrobe if:

  • You are looking for a pair of durable and comfortable sneakers to show off from time to time.
  • You want something clean and lightweight to walk around the city.
  • You love Nike sneakers but won't settle for anything that's not premium (oh, and you don't want to pay a premium price).
  • You are a Forrest Gump fan, a 90s retro runners fan, or a little bit of both!

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather-full-picture

Who should NOT buy

If you want a new pair of cool shoes to wear in the summer, run away from this Nike Cortez. Its premium and durable leather upper has no ventilation holes, which means there's little to no airflow. We could feel the heat during our wear tests, so if you're looking for a breathable leather shoe, the Nike Court Vision Low might be your cup of tea.

Then, if what you need is a new pair of daily beaters to wear every single day, it'd be better to opt for a model with a more durable outsole. As an alternative, we believe you may like the Nike Dunk High, which is also pretty iconic itself, or the Nike SB Force 58, which comes with a suede upper.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather-pieces

Cushioning

Heel stack

This Nike's heel stack is pretty much average, as our caliper returned 30.8 mm when we measured it. The overall experience was pretty comfortable, and we liked how this shoe breaks with the oversized trend that's overflowing among sneakers nowadays!

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Heel stack

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 30.8 mm
Average 30.2 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
16.9 mm
Heel stack
50.5 mm

Forefoot stack

At 20.9 mm, the forefoot stack is slightly higher than average. But don't worry, this doesn't make this shoe massive either. Honestly, we're really happy with how the brand kept the iconic Cortez look instead of succumbing to the current chunky vibe of the sneakers market.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Forefoot stack

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 20.9 mm
Average 19.1 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
9.7 mm
Forefoot stack
29.5 mm

Drop

The difference between the rear and forefoot stacks is nothing too crazy. In fact, even with the "iconic wedge insert" that Nike mentions on its official webpage, we never felt like the Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather's heel was too high. At 9.9 mm, the drop of these sneakers is just standard.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Drop

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 9.9 mm
Average 11.1 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
3.5 mm
Drop
17.2 mm

Midsole softness

Note: a low durometer measurement equals a soft material, whereas a high measurement means it's firm.

After cutting this shoe in half, we had free access to its midsole. In order to measure its softness, we pressed our durometer against it, which marked 28.5 HA. This indicates it's slightly on the softer side, offering some extra comfort to our ride.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Midsole softness

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 28.5 HA
Average 29.0 HA
We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.
Compared to 75 sneakers
Number of shoes
15.0 HA
Midsole softness (soft to firm)
46.4 HA

Secondary foam softness

Note: a low durometer measurement equals a soft material, whereas a high measurement means it's firm.

As the wedge we mentioned before is also part of this shoe's cushioning, we pressed our durometer against it too. It returned 31.0 HA, which is softer than the secondary foam average... yet not very plush. Why? Well, because as this piece is closer to the ground, it's composition harder to improve this Cortez's overall stability.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Secondary foam softness

Even if it's not the plushes shoe out there, we still found it soft enough underfoot to enjoy every step. Check it out!

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 31.0 HA
Average 34.0 HA
We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.

Insole thickness

This Nike's insole imitates the minimalist and clean vibe of the whole shoe. Its 4.3 mm make it thinner than average, reducing the overall weight and keeping things simple.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Insole thickness

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 4.3 mm
Average 5.1 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
3.1 mm
Insole thickness
11.5 mm

Size and fit

Size

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather is slightly small (11 votes).

Owners of this shoe, how does this shoe fit?

1 size small ½ size small True to size ½ size large 1 size large
Compared to 108 sneakers
Number of shoes
½ size small
Slightly small
True to size
Slightly large
½ size large

Toebox width - widest part

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Toebox width - widest part

Toebox width - big toe

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Toebox width - big toe

Toebox height

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Toebox height

Stability

Lateral stability test

We can't say this shoe offers great lateral stability. As you can see in the video below, its structure isn't the most solid out there. Nevertheless, as long as you don't play any sports in it, the support of this Nike Cortez should be enough. A quick run to catch the bus wouldn't hurt anyone, though!

Torsional rigidity

When we took this shoe to our lab and tried to twist it, our fingers struggled. It wasn't as bad as our experience with other iconic Nike pairs (yes, Air Force 1 07, we're looking at you), but it still put up a fight. Consequently, we decided to give it a 4/5 on our torsional rigidity test).

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 4
Average 3.6
Compared to 92 sneakers
Number of shoes
1
Torsional rigidity
5

Heel counter stiffness

The heel was not as rigid, fortunately. Our thumb managed to bend it and it didn't hurt our Achilles tendon during our wear tests, which were both wonderful news. So we decided to give it a 3/5 on our stiffness tests, which is an average score.

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 3
Average 3.2
Compared to 92 sneakers
Number of shoes
1
Heel counter stiffness
5

Midsole width - forefoot

We noticed the streamlined design of this shoe from the very first moment we took it out of its box. The Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather features a really narrow midsole, as our caliper marked only 95.6 mm when we measured its width in the forefoot. Once again, we totally advise you against using this pair for sports. If you want to pick up running, please check our reviews about specific performance models.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Midsole width - forefoot

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 95.6 mm
Average 108.5 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
95.1 mm
Midsole width - forefoot
121.0 mm

Midsole width - heel

The heel follows the same logic. It's incredibly narrow, at only 71.0 mm. That's why we firmly claim it's better to keep this Nike Cortez for casual use. It lacks the landing base needed for sporty activities and, consequently, its stability is also not the best.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Midsole width - heel

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 71.0 mm
Average 83.6 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
67.7 mm
Midsole width - heel
103.1 mm

Flexibility / Stiffness

We needed 27.8N of force to make this shoe do a handstand all the way up to 90 degrees. Even though this doesn't mean it's unforgivably stiff, the result is higher than average. During our wear tests, we noticed the Cortez 23 Premium Leather needed some time to warm up and let loose, as the ride felt a little bit stiff at the beginning.

But nothing too bad, honestly. It's not like it was hard to walk in or uncomfortable, just a little bit unfriendly at the beginning. That being said, it didn't take long to start comfortably bending alongside our feet!

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 27.8N
Average 23.4N
We use an average of four tests. The video shows one of those tests.
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
5.8N
Flexibility <> Stiffness
51.8N

Weight

Even if it was not the friendliest shoe at the beginning in terms of stiffness, what we did feel from the very first time we put this Nike pair on for our wear tests was how light it was. We could walk for hours and our feet wouldn't get excessively tired, which is wonderful news for a daily beater!

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Weight

When we took it to our lab, the scale returned only 11.85 oz/336g. This means the Cortez 23 Premium Leather is way more lightweight than most sneakers. In fact, the experience on foot was wonderful, as after some quick warm-up our feet felt happy and comfortable.

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 11.85 oz (336g)
Average 13.79 oz (391g)
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
8.50 oz (241g)
Weight
20.49 oz (581g)

Breathability

After cutting this Nike pair in half and putting it in front of our light, our expectations regarding breathability went all the way down. Also, to be fair, during our wear tests it felt pretty warm even at the beginning.

The leather upper didn't let the light shine through... and it didn't let any smoke out either! As you can see in the video below, the Cortez 23 Premium Leather barely breathes, losing the yoga teacher contest to the ASICS Gel NYC (which scored a perfect 5/5 on this test). After seeing these results, we could only give it a 1/5 on our breathability test, which is the lowest score.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Breathability-microscope-1

And our microscope is here to explain why this makes perfect sense. Look at that close-up of the upper's leather. Can you see any ventilation holes? A small gap? Some kind of meshy patch somewhere? No, no, and no again, right? With such a solid material, there's no way the air could flow in and out of the shoe easily!

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Breathability-microscope-2

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 1
Average 3
Compared to 92 sneakers
Number of shoes
1
Breathability
5

Durability

Leather/Suede quality

With a price tag of $110, we can't say this Nike pair is on the expensive end... yet its materials are!

We started by burning the top layer at the heel. As you can see, there was no big flame there, and the material didn't end up all sticky. Therefore, the leather in this area is authentic!

We also heated up the front part, and the result was basically the same. The material tried its best to put up with the heat, showing us it's definitely authentic.

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather Real leather

Toebox durability

Compensating for its awful performance regarding breathability, this Nike Cortez pair showed top-tier durability. At 5K RPM and with 2N of force, our Dremel tried its best to destroy it, but it was a futile effort. As you can see in the video, the leather put up a fight, and it withstood abrasion so well that we decided to give it a perfect 5/5 on our toebox durability test.

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 5
Average 3.7
Compared to 92 sneakers
Number of shoes
1
Toebox durability
5

Heel padding durability

On the other hand, the heel was not that much for a fighter. The tool didn't take too long to destroy most of the lining, so we could only give it a 2/5 on our durability test. In order to preserve the shoe's integrity in this area, we'd recommend you untie the laces and tie them back again when you put it on and off, instead of forcing your way in and out of the shoe with the laces all tied up.

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 2
Average 3.2
Compared to 92 sneakers
Number of shoes
1
Heel padding durability
5

Outsole hardness

When we measured this Nike's outsole hardness, our durometer returned 82.0 HC. This result is slightly lower than average, which indicates the material used (rubber, in this case) might be slightly less durable than the standard for this category.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Outsole hardness

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 82.0 HC
Average 85.7 HC
We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.
Compared to 92 sneakers
Number of shoes
76.1 HC
Outsole hardness
94.0 HC

Outsole durability

And it turns out our hypothesis was just right! This time at 10K RPM and with the same 2N of force, our Dremel drilled the rubber non-stop. Sadly, the dent left was way deeper than average, as our tread gauge marked 1.8 mm when we measured it. Even though the Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather might not be the pair of sneakers with the most durable outsole, it'll still be by your side for a while if you just use it in the city.

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 1.8 mm
Average 1.1 mm
Compared to 92 sneakers
Number of shoes
0.0 mm
Outsole wear
2.0 mm

Outsole thickness

When we measured this shoe's outsole thickness, our caliper returned 5.0 mm. It's pretty much average, which means it should be thick enough to withstand the harshness of urban areas for some time, even if it doesn't feature the most durable rubber. Just take into account that this might vary if you overuse the shoe or walk over very abrasive floors constantly!

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Outsole thickness

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 5.0 mm
Average 5.3 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
2.9 mm
Outsole thickness
8.6 mm

Misc

Grip / Traction

The Cortez 23 Premium Leather features a spiky herringbone pattern throughout the entire outsole. This detail is not just a nice nod to the shoe's heritage, but also a functional touch that offered nice traction. Nothing crazy thought, but we found it good enough for common urban areas.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather-outsole

Price

When this model was released, we could hear the crowd roar. Even though its price has evoked mixed feelings among sneakerheads, if you are a Forrest Gump fan... it might be your cup of tea. We can't say these sneakers are a bang for the buck, but if you're a retro lover who is all over the 90s vibe, checking them out should be worth it.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather-laces

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather $110
Average $122
Compared to 116 sneakers
Number of shoes
$50
Price
$220

Reflective elements

The premium leather of this Nike Cortez keeps it clean and simple, so it doesn't feature any reflective accents.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Reflective elements

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather No

Tongue padding

At 10.2 mm, this shoe's tongue is slightly more padded than average. This protected us from any potential lace bite or uncomfortable rub, so even if we tied our laces quite tightly, our instep was just as comfortable.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Tongue padding

We're talking about a lightweight shoe, so there's not a lot of inner padding. Nevertheless, we do believe it's enough, as we found this Nike pair pretty comfortable during our wear tests.

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather 10.2 mm
Average 9.3 mm
Compared to 93 sneakers
Number of shoes
0.7 mm
Tongue padding
23.0 mm

Heel tab

Instead of featuring a heel tab, this 90s icon has a shiny patch at the heel with the brand's name and logo. We really liked this detail, as it matches the massive Swoosh this Cortez model has on the inner and outer lateral panels.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather-heel

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather None

Removable insole

We absolutely love removable insoles, and this Nike Cortez has been nice enough to grant us our wish. If you need or want to change this shoe's footbed, you won't have any issues. Nevertheless, please keep in mind we're talking about a snug model. Hence, going for an extra thick insole might jeopardize comfort.

Nike Cortez 23 Premium Leather Removable insole

Test results
Cortez 23 Premium Leather Yes