Our verdict

Even though the 4th iteration of the 990 series doesn't get as much spotlight as the other versions, we noticed that it sparks interest every time a new limited colorway is released. But even if you get the shoe in a basic grey "Core" colorway, we promise that you will not be disappointed in this chunky dad shoe style. We were treated to plenty of comfort and lateral support in this New Balance sneaker which proved its potential of a go-to daily beater. It is, however, notably pricier than the average kick but you are getting high-class suede and made-in-USA quality in return.

Pros

  • High quality suede and craftsmanship
  • Well-cushioned for all-day wear
  • Excellent stability and arch support
  • Very comfortable in-shoe feel
  • Nicely breathable for summer
  • Flexible forefoot and smooth transitions
  • Reflective elements

Cons

  • Above-average price
  • Not the most durable

Audience verdict

93
Superb!

Who should buy

As one of New Balance’s classic silhouettes, version four of the 990 would be a great match if you:

  • are into the “dad shoe” vibe
  • want a more practical sneaker for daily use
  • prefer a more stable platform (especially if you tend to overpronate or have flat feet)
  • have wider feet

New Balance 990 v4 review

Who should NOT buy

If you are not ready for a £190 dent in your wallet, there are a few excellent alternatives from New Balance to consider.

These kicks offer just as much comfort as the 990 v4 and exude that retro flair at a much more reasonable price - NB 1906R, NB 2002R, or an even more budget-friendly NB 530.

New Balance 990 v4 lab test

Breathability

As much as suede dominates the 990v4's upper, we are glad to report that the mesh cut-outs took care of the shoe's ventilation brilliantly.

The smoke we pumped into the sneaker passed right through the toebox mesh without obstruction. We were utterly surprised because this NB sneaker doesn't seem to have any visible ventilation holes. And its mesh didn't even let any light through in our transparency test.

And yet, it proved to be porous enough to keep the airflow going with numerous tiny spaces in its chainlinking. It took a microscope zoom-in to discover them.

New Balance 990 v4 Breathability microscope check

Thus, we give the New Balance 990 v4 a strong pass for summer use! On a breathability scale from 1 to 5, it gets a solid maximum score.

New Balance 990 v4 Breathability under microscope
Test results
990 v4 5
Average 3.1
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
1
Breathability
5

Durability

Leather/Suede quality

Would we question suede quality on a £190 sneaker from a brand with a longstanding reputation? We wouldn't be a shoe-testing lab if we didn't.

But luckily, we have nothing but good news about the 990v4. The shoe's pigskin suede has a very shaggy and soft texture with a distinct fragrance (smells like quality, in other words).

Subjecting it to a fire test did not result in any melting or fire spreading. The burnt area didn't stick to our scratch awl but turned into dust and crumbled easily.

Having no more reservations, we can confirm that the suede is indeed real. And it helps the shoe live up to the quality you would expect from a "Made in USA" product.

New Balance 990 v4 Made in the USA

Test results
990 v4 Real suede

Toebox durability

A sneaker's premium price should pay off in its decent lifespan, right? To test the durability potential of the New Balance 990 v4, we applied a Dremel with a sandpaper tip to various parts of its upper and sole.

For starters, we set the Dremel speed to 5K RPM and applied a consistent pressure of 3.2N to the shoe's toebox mesh for 12 seconds. But as you can see, the sandpaper managed to burn through the shoe's mesh within that time frame.

New Balance 990 v4 Toebox durability comparison

The inner lining saved the NB 990 v4 from a see-through hole (as in the NB 530 on the right) but it did leave significant damage.

Because of that, we had to lower the shoe's toebox durability score to 3 out of 5.

Test results
990 v4 3
Average 3.9
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
1
Toebox durability
5

Heel padding durability

However, the textured mesh on the inner side of the shoe's collar turned out to be much better equipped for wear and tear.

The Dremel only lightly frayed the topmost threads without affecting the fabric's overall integrity. Considering how torn other shoes' mesh linings looked after only 4 seconds of sandpaper drilling, we confidently rated the 990 v4's heel padding durability as 4 out of 5.

New Balance 990 v4 Heel padding durability comparison
Test results
990 v4 4
Average 3.4
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
1
Heel padding durability
5

Outsole hardness

The shoe's stable platform wouldn't be complete without a sufficiently wide base.

New Balance 990 v4 Midsole width in the forefoot

In the widest part of the forefoot, our calliper recorded a whopping 112.5 mm. That's the kind of landing area we've come to expect from the NB 990 trainers.

Test results
990 v4 76.1 HC
Average 85.2 HC
We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
72.9 HC
Outsole hardness
90.5 HC

Outsole durability

From our extensive shoe testing experience, we know that softer rubbers don't handle abrasion as easily as their harder counterparts.

Unfortunately, that proved to be true for the 990 v4 as well.

The shoe's rubber did not take our 22-second drilling session very well. At 10K RPM, the Dremel left a 1.9 mm deep dent on the outsole, twice as deep as the average.

New Balance 990 v4 Outsole durability test
Test results
990 v4 1.9 mm
Average 1.0 mm
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
0.0 mm
Outsole wear
2.0 mm

Outsole thickness

It's great that the NB 990 v4 employs a thick layer of rubber for the outsole to compensate for its softness.

New Balance 990 v4 Outsole thickness

Our calliper returned 5.5 mm which is on par with the average. However, it doesn't seem like this New Balance sneaker would outlast other kicks in terms of outsole durability.

Test results
990 v4 5.5 mm
Average 5.5 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
3.1 mm
Outsole thickness
12.5 mm

Weight

We found that the NB 990 v4 weighs just the same as the typical lifestyle sneaker - neither particularly light nor hefty. Putting it on a scale in a men's US size 9 showed a standard 14.0 oz (398g).

New Balance 990 v4 Weight

The 990 v4 also sits in the middle of the range for the 990 series where different versions weigh between 13 oz and 15.5 oz.

New Balance 990 v4 on foot

Test results
990 v4 14.04 oz (398g)
Average 13.83 oz (392g)
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
8.50 oz (241g)
Weight
22.61 oz (641g)

Cushioning

Heel stack

Even though the NB 990 v4 appears to be very similar to the 990 v6, we found its platform to be slightly lower.

New Balance 990 v4 Heel stackBased on our calliper measurement, there is 32.8 mm in the shoe's stack height whereas the 990 v6 has a chunkier heel of 39.1 mm.

New Balance 990 v4 vs 990 v6

But even at 32.8 mm, the 990 v4 is still a few millimetres taller than the average sneaker platform. The generous helping of foam in this New Balance sneaker kept us comfortable for hours and we can confidently recommend it as an all-day beater.

Test results
990 v4 32.8 mm
Average 29.6 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
16.9 mm
Heel stack
50.5 mm

Forefoot stack

The balls of our feet also felt sufficiently cushioned thanks to the shoe's taller-than-average forefoot stack of 23.6 mm.

New Balance 990 v4 Forefoot stack

Test results
990 v4 23.6 mm
Average 18.6 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
10.6 mm
Forefoot stack
28.3 mm

Drop

Because the NB 990 v4 packs slightly more cushioning in its heel, it has a pretty moderate heel-to-toe drop of 9.2 mm.

New Balance 990 v4 Drop

We found this offset to be normal for all New Balance 990 trainers so it's going to feel familiar if you've worn the other iterations from this series.

Because we all step on our heels first when walking, it is only natural to have more cushioning and impact protection in this area. So the 990 v4 made sure we had enough material to rely on for walking and standing all day.

Test results
990 v4 9.2 mm
Average 10.9 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
4.6 mm
Drop
22.6 mm

Midsole softness

Note: a low durometer measurement equals a soft material, whereas a high measurement means it's firm.

To provide a fine balance of cushioning and stability, this New Balance sneaker features two types of foam - a softer one under the heel and a firmer one in the rest of the midsole. But even the latter is moderately soft and has a nice give to it.

Measuring the softer compound returned 20.6 HA on our Shore A durometer. This is, in fact, 40% plusher than average!

New Balance 990 v4 Midsole softness
Test results
990 v4 20.6 HA
Average 29.2 HA
We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.
Compared to 55 trainers
Number of shoes
15.0 HA
Midsole softness (soft to firm)
60.0 HA

Secondary foam softness

Note: a low durometer measurement equals a soft material, whereas a high measurement means it's firm.

The firmer (white) foam, which is primarily concentrated in the forefoot, returned 25.4 HA. It's only 23% harder than the softer (grey) foam in the heel.

New Balance 990 v4 Secondary foam softness

Overall, the shoe's ride was pleasantly cushioned and the midsole softness felt controlled.

Test results
990 v4 25.4 HA
Average 35.4 HA
We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.

Insole thickness

A well-padded insole enhances the 990 v4's cushioning packing 5.1 mm of foam in the heel.

New Balance 990 v4 Insole thickness
Test results
990 v4 5.1 mm
Average 5.2 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
3.1 mm
Insole thickness
14.2 mm

Stability

Lateral stability test

We hardly ever had issues with support and stability in New Balance trainers and the 990 v4 proved to be a reliable companion in that regard. In fact, the original 990 shoe from 1982 was designed with arch support in mind!

We can even recommend this lifestyle sneaker for people with mild overpronation and those who could use extra support for long hours on their feet. And if you think you need an even more stable NB shoe, the 990 v6 is hard to beat.

New Balance 990 v4 arch support

Torsional rigidity

One of the 990 v4's most obvious stability elements is the ENCAP shank that embraces the rearfoot stretching all the way from the midfoot.

New Balance 990 v4 encap

The shank also runs through the centre of the midsole offering the rigidity that's necessary to prevent the shoe, and consequently the foot, from twisting.

New Balance 990 v4 shank

As you can see from our manual test, the heel of the 990 v4 is practically immobile and all of the bending occurs in the forefoot. Because of that, we rated its torsional rigidity with a high score of 4.

Test results
990 v4 4
Average 3.4
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
1
Torsional rigidity
5

Heel counter stiffness

From the moment we got this NB shoe on, we knew that our heels and ankles would remain safe and sound. A strong heel clutch is offered by the shoe's rigid heel counter which received a high score of 4 in our manual stiffness test.

Test results
990 v4 4
Average 3.2
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
1
Heel counter stiffness
5

Midsole width in the forefoot

The shoe's stable platform wouldn't be complete without a sufficiently wide base.

New Balance 990 v4 Midsole width in the forefoot

In the widest part of the forefoot, our calliper recorded a whopping 112.5 mm. That's the kind of landing area we've come to expect from the NB 990 trainers.

Test results
990 v4 112.5 mm
Average 108.4 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
95.1 mm
Midsole width in the forefoot
121.0 mm

Midsole width in the heel

The 990 v4 also felt quite platformy in the heel showing another wider-than-average reading of 88.0 mm.

New Balance 990 v4 Midsole width in the heel

Test results
990 v4 88.0 mm
Average 82.9 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
67.7 mm
Midsole width in the heel
103.1 mm

Flexibility

Stiffness

We couldn't help but notice that the 990 v4 was a bit easier to bend compared to the rest of the 990 series. It just seemed to have a bit more forgiveness in the forefoot.

Our observations found proof in a force gauge test where we discovered that the v4 needed a little less force (N) than the other 990 kicks.

The shoe required 20.7N to bend to a 90-degree angle which translated into more freedom of movement on foot.

Test results
990 v4 20.7N
Average 22.9N
We use an average of four tests. The video shows one of those tests.
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
5.8N
Stiffness
60.5N

Size and fit

Internal length

True to size or size down?

Our calliper measurement confirmed that the New Balance 990 v4 runs longer than most other trainers in a men's US size 9. At 276.3 mm, it's a good 5 mm longer than what we've come to expect.

New Balance 990 v4 Internal length

HOWEVER! If you have worn other 990 kicks and felt comfortable, do get that same size in the 990 v4 because we found its internal length to be consistent with the other iterations. This is also true for all of the 99X models (991, 996, 997, 998, etc.) as well as retro shoes like 1906R, 2002R, and 530.

Test results
990 v4 276.3 mm
Average 272.1 mm
Compared to 64 trainers
Number of shoes
265.3 mm
Internal length
280.1 mm

Toebox width at the widest part

Considering that the 990 v4 fit us about half a size larger than expected, its toebox also felt quite roomy.

New Balance 990 v4 Toebox width at the widest part

Showing 99.9 mm in the widest area of the forefoot, our calliper confirmed the shoe's accommodating toe room. You can most likely tell that the 990 v4 is a bit large for our men's US size 9 feet from the photo below.

New Balance 990 v4 fit

Test results
990 v4 99.9 mm
Average 98.8 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
91.6 mm
Toebox width at the widest part
107.7 mm

Toebox width at the big toe

The square shape of the 990 v4 is a surefire sign that it could fit a wider-shaped foot.

New Balance 990 v4 Toebox width at the big toe

Our calliper measurement seems to agree with that showing 77.6 mm in the big toe area. And if you need even more toe space, we recommend looking into the 990 v6 as well. It is available in 6(!) different width options - from extra narrow to extra wide!

Test results
990 v4 77.6 mm
Average 74.7 mm
Compared to 69 trainers
Number of shoes
63.7 mm
Toebox width at the big toe
83.0 mm

Comfort

Tongue padding

The in-shoe padding of the New Balance 990 v6 is pretty abundant but not excessive.

New Balance 990 v4 Tongue padding

The tongue foam, for example, showed a moderate thickness of 9.3 mm, and the collar is lightly padded as well.

Test results
990 v4 9.3 mm
Average 9.0 mm
Compared to 70 trainers
Number of shoes
0.7 mm
Tongue padding
38.4 mm

Heel tab

The shoe doesn't have any assisting loops or tabs but we found it fairly easy to slide our feet into it anyway.

New Balance 990 v4 Heel tab
Test results
990 v4 None

Removable insole

If customised support is necessary, the shoe's stock insole can be replaced without an issue.

New Balance 990 v4 Removable insole
Test results
990 v4 Yes

Misc

Reflective elements

Is this a sneaker or a disco ball? We found reflective elements all around it!

The logos, the heel patches...

...even some strips on top of the upper.

Test results
990 v4 Yes