Who should buy the Scarpa Instinct SR

Fanatics of the climb had better prepare for what the Scarpa Instinct SR has up its sleeves. It is a solid option if you:

  • Prefer a climbing shoe that is engineered for climbers needing enhanced underfoot sensitivity. 
  • Prefer a climbing shoe that provides adequate flexibility and tension.
  • Prefer a climbing shoe that is built specifically for bouldering.

Scarpa Instinct SR logo 1

Excellent surface grip

Giving climbers the right amount of surface grip in this Scarpa shoe is a rubber outsole from Vibram, called XS Grip 2. Its thickness is 3.5 millimeters. It has a ¾ coverage, starting from the arch to the front tip of the shoe. 

Scarpa Instinct SR outsole

Excellent heel-hooking performance

The heel portion, on the other hand, is built with M50 rubber for enhanced heel-hooking performance.

Scarpa Instinct SR outsole 2

Flexible yet provides excellent power transfer

The Instinct SR gets to support the user’s foot thanks to its heavy-duty midsole, called Flexan. It has an overall thickness of 1 millimeter. Scarpa engineers strategically placed it in the front to give wearers ample flexibility without compromising power transfer.

Scarpa Instinct SR midsole

Supportive arch and toe support

The below-the-ankle upper of the Scarpa Instinct SR climbing shoe is made of microfiber. It has a supportive single-piece rand reinforcing its arch and toe regions.

Scarpa Instinct SR arch

Offers toe hooking security

Its designers furnished its toe box with M50 rubber to give users ample grip and security when toe hooking. This covering is also perforated for versatility.

Scarpa Instinct SR upper

Secure lockdown and easy to wear

Since this is a slipper-type shoe, it relies on its highly elastic collar and instep zone to keep the foot firmly in place. It has a total of three pull loops to expedite on and off.

Scarpa Instinct SR loop

Scarpa Instinct SR vs VS

These kicks are designed by Scarpa to give a performance in various climbing disciplines. Shown below are several factors that differentiate these two products apart.

Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct VS sports a moderately-downturned shape. This downward camber enables senders to tackle multi-pitch routes with ample comfort. Meanwhile, the Instinct SR’s downturn details can be seen in the Profile section.

Applications. The Instinct VS is crafted by Scarpa for sports climbing and outdoor bouldering. It is also equipped with features that provide performance for vertical routes and overhangs. The Scarpa Instinct SR, on the other hand, is ideal for bouldering indoors.

Upper. Scarpa equipped the Instinct VS with an unlined upper made of microsuede. A rand wraps around the upper’s base for protection from abrasive elements. It also gives individuals added climbing security. Meanwhile, the shoe comes with a Velcro closure system to render a secure lockdown. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct SR is a slip-on shoe made of unlined microfiber uppers.

Midsole. The Instinct VS sports a 1mm-thick Flexan midsole. It functions by providing senders with sufficient support when tackling tiny footholds and tricky pockets. The brand also furnished the Instinct SR with the same midsole technology to render a stable platform.

Outsole. Scarpa’s Instinct VS comes with a hybrid design for its outsole. The forefoot is made of 3.5mm-thick XS Edge. The heel section uses an XS Grip 2 construction with a 2mm thickness. This component is engineered to deliver surface traction on rocky terrain. The Scarpa Instinct SR’s Vibram outsole, as seen in the Performance section, has a thickness of 3.5 mm.

Additional Info

  • Buyers who are in need of an eco-friendly pair may want to take a look at Evolv climbing shoes. Their best offerings are constructed without the use of animal byproducts.
  • Those who require aggressive kicks that can be used for overhanging routes may find the performance they need in the La Sportiva Solution.

Facts / Specs

Weight: Men 240g
Base model: Scarpa Instinct
Technology: Synthetic
Construction: Board lasted
Closure: Slip-on
Fit: Performance fit
Downturn: Moderate

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Author
Teddy Dondanville
Teddy Dondanville

Teddy is a professionally trained Apprentice Rock Guide with the American Mountain Guides Association and a Wilderness First Responder with the National Outdoor Leadership School. Besides guiding outdoor rock climbing, Teddy also has years of experience in route setting and coaching climbing indoors. Through his guiding, route setting, and coaching, Teddy has experimented with climbing shoes for over a decade.