|Base model:||Scarpa Instinct|
|Material:||Synthetic, Vibram sole|
|Use:||All around, Bouldering|
Experts are climbers, who post reviews at youtube, directly at RunRepeat or at their own websites. Each expert is categorized from level 1 to level 5 based on expertise. See stats on expert reviews and how we calculate scores here.
Are you an expert? Apply to contribute here.
89 / 100 based on 7 expert reviews
It's a phenomenal shoe.
[T]his new version of an old friend climbed better than ever on everything I threw at it, from sandstone thin face, to gym steeps, to slippery Eldo boulders.
Overall, The Scarpa Instinct SR is a great shoe for training indoors and an exception shoe for a slipper.
As such, the Instinct SR - at least in my eyes - works best for bouldering and sport climbing outdoors, where you're either looking for an edge or a good edge/smear combo (once worn in).
A good shoe, designed with indoor competition style and training board climbing in mind, and certainly best suited to this end.
I really like how Scarpa designed this shoe with a seamless four-toe panel, which allows you to have maximum comfort and sensitivity when climbing.
-The Scarpa Instinct SR, the slip-on version of the Instinct, is an offering engineered for climbers needing enhanced underfoot sensitivity. Its engineers designed it for steep ascents, where heel- and toe-hooking maneuvers are much needed.
-It is built with the Bi-Tension active randing system. This Scarpa-exclusive technology primarily reinforces the toe and arch zones, giving the shoe adequate flexibility and tension at the same time.
Downturn. The Instinct SR is part of Scarpa’s selection of moderately downturned climbing kicks. Its beak of a front tip promises precise footing on narrow ledges and micro-edges. It offers sufficient comfort on extended technical climbs.
Applications. This all-around performer from Scarpa is built specifically for bouldering. It is targeted at intermediate climbers who prefer to send projects indoors.
Scarpa’s Instinct SR is a low-top climbing shoe for men. Its multi-panel construction molds to the contours of the wearer’s foot, leading to an intimate kind of fit with time. Climbers can achieve a secure lockdown in it using the shoe’s REB reinforced elastic closure. Although engineered with microfiber, stretching to about a full size can be expected over time due to its unlined uppers.
Midsole. The Instinct SR gets to support the user’s foot thanks to its heavy-duty midsole, called Flexan. It has an overall thickness of 1 millimeter. Scarpa engineers strategically placed it in the front to give wearers ample flexibility without compromising power transfer.
Outsole. Giving climbers the right amount of surface grip in this Scarpa shoe is a rubber outsole from Vibram, called XS Grip 2. Its thickness is 3.5 millimeters. It has a ¾ coverage, starting from the arch to the front tip of the shoe. The heel portion, on the other hand, is built with M50 rubber for enhanced heel-hooking performance.
The below-the-ankle upper of the Scarpa Instinct SR climbing shoe is made of microfiber. It has a supportive single-piece rand reinforcing its arch and toe regions. Its designers furnished its toe box with M50 rubber to give users ample grip and security when toe hooking. This covering is also perforated for versatility.
Since this is a slipper-type shoe, it relies on its highly elastic collar and instep zone to keep the foot firmly in place. It has a total of three pull loops to expedite on and off.
These kicks are designed by Scarpa to give performance in various climbing disciplines. Shown below are several factors that differentiate these two products apart.
Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct VS sports a moderately-downturned shape. This downward camber enables senders to tackle multi-pitch routes with ample comfort. Meanwhile, the Instinct SR’s downturn details can be seen in the Profile section.
Applications. The Instinct VS is crafted by Scarpa for sport climbing and outdoor bouldering.It is also equipped with features that provide performance for vertical routes and overhangs. The Scarpa Instinct SR, on the other hand, is ideal for bouldering indoors.
Upper. Scarpa equipped the Instinct VS with an unlined upper made of microsuede. A rand wraps around the upper’s base for protection from abrasive elements. It also gives individuals added climbing security. Meanwhile, the shoe comes with a Velcro closure system to render a secure lockdown. On the other hand, the Scarpa Instinct SR is a slip-on shoe made of unlined microfiber uppers.
Midsole. The Instinct VS sports a 1mm-thick Flexan midsole. It functions by providing senders with sufficient support when tackling tiny footholds and tricky pockets. The brand also furnished the Instinct SR with the same midsole technology to render a stable platform.
Outsole. Scarpa’s Instinct VS comes with a hybrid design for its outsole. The forefoot is made of 3.5mm-thick XS Edge. The heel section uses an XS Grip 2 construction with a 2mm thickness. This component is engineered to deliver surface traction on rocky terrain. The Scarpa Instinct SR’s Vibram outsole, as seen in the Performance section, has a thickness of 3.5 mm.
- Buyers who are in need of an eco-friendly pair may want to take a look at Evolv climbing shoes. Their best offerings are constructed without the use of animal byproducts.
- Those who require aggressive kicks that can be used for overhanging routes may find the performance they need in the La Sportiva Solution.