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40% say it's too small, 52% say it's true to size.
Overview of this review
Scarpa Instinct notable features
-The Instinct, which Scarpa advertises as the company’s most supportive piece in the Instinct line-up, is built for climbers who need extra precision in their footing. It comes equipped with features that render it capable of providing a well-rounded kind of performance.
-Wearers are promised increased reactivity in it thanks to the Instinct’s Bi-Tension rand system. This Scarpa-owned tech also keeps the shoe’s weight at a minimum while enhancing its climbing precision.
Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct is a moderately downturned climber’s shoe. This type of toe profile allows users to climb in comfort on ascents involving multiple pitches. It also enables owners to send projects using several different techniques.
Applications. The Instinct from Scarpa may be used mainly for bouldering and sport climbing. Its combination of features and technologies gives it the ability to scale vertical faces and crack-filled surfaces in the great outdoors. It is built primarily for intermediate senders.
A low-cut rock climbing shoe for men and women is the Scarpa Instinct. Since it is built around the FV last, its profile is curved and asymmetric. Users can expect a performance fit from this product. Its ghillie lacing provides climbing enthusiasts with a secure and personalized lockdown.
Midsole. The Scarpa Instinct grants sufficient support and underfoot protection with its stiff midsole, called Flexan. It comes at a thickness of 1 mm.
Outsole. On the surface traction front, the Instinct comes with the Vibram XS Edge outsole. Its overall thickness is 4 mm. It covers the forefoot and heel zones only, giving the shoe’s arch region a bit more flexibility.
This climbing piece from Scarpa has a 1.8-mm thick low-top upper. It is made of microsuede, which is synthetic. It comes without a liner, bringing the foot as close as possible to the surface for increased sensitivity. It has a heavy-duty rand around the forefoot which lends users extra grip and control when toe hooking and jamming. The upper’s heel section is reinforced with the Bi-Tension rand, protecting the shoe’s sides from abrasive hazards while cupping the wearer’s heel securely in place. Aiding the climber during on and off are the Scarpa Instinct’s pair of heel pull loops.
The Instinct’s fit management system uses regular eyelets without plating. Through them, a synthetic lace is set.
Scarpa Instinct vs. La Sportiva Genius
The Instinct is arguably one of Scarpa’s most wanted rock climbing shoes. As such, senders far and wide tend to compare it with some of La Sportiva’s high-quality climbing kicks. In this head-to-head, pitted against the featured shoe (also known as the Instinct) is the La Sportiva Genius. The points that follow will discuss the aspects that set the two apart.
Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct, as previously discussed, has a moderate downturn. The Genius, on the other hand, is an aggressively down-cambered climbing shoe.
Outsole. Both kicks sport outsoles from Vibram. That said, they do not share the same rubber compound. The Scarpa Instinct uses the XS Edge, while its rival uses the XS Grip 2. The one in the featured climbing shoe is also thicker than the one in the Genius by 1 mm.
Asking price. In this round, the Instinct gets to take the cake. While neither of the two competing products can be considered budget-friendly rock climbing shoes, the Instinct is cheaper than the La Sportiva Genius by about $10.
Target environment. The rock shoe from Scarpa is intended for outdoor use. Its competitor, on the other hand, may be used both indoors and outdoors.
Weight. On this front, choosing between the Instinct and the La Sportiva Genius should not be that complicated. This is because the difference in weight between the two is minuscule at best. Case in point: the featured Scarpa rock climbing shoe is only 1 g heavier than the rival aggressive shoe.
Nice to know
-This shoe has other versions. Among them is a velcro rock shoe.