Verdict from 5 user reviews

3 reasons to buy

  • Boulder ascender: Most of those who have thoroughly tested the Five Ten NIAD Moccasym recommend said shoe highly for bouldering.
  • Zero air pockets: Its heel has no dead space at all.
  • Grippy: Tenacity on the wall or rock is something you can bank on in this remarkable shoe from Five Ten.

3 reasons not to buy

  • Questionable in cracks: Ascending fissures might not be the NIAD Moccasym’s forte. One user blames it on the weird placement of the rubber toe patch.
  • Narrow: Someone who normally wears climbing kicks in size 11 finds the toe box of this shoe too narrow.
  • Challenging access: You might have a hard time slipping into this during its break-in period.

Bottom line

If you are looking for a shoe that can solve most of your bouldering challenges, then the NIAD Moccasym just might be the right pick for you. It takes snugness (in terms of fit) seriously so that you can mind the problem ahead more and wearing it less. That said, this clinginess might also be a deterrent to those who have stouter feet.

Tip: see the best climbing shoes.

5.10 NIAD Moccasym: A more determined climber

If you thought that the NIAD Moccasym looks familiar, then you have a pretty good memory. As a matter of fact, the shoe in question is the successor to the Anasazi Moccasym. The points that follow detail the NIAD Moccasym’s changes over its predecessor.

Bigger toe patch. This is where the “more determined climber” really comes from. Compared with the Anasazi Moccasym, the rubber patch on the featured shoe has a wider coverage, which allows for more climbing options while toe-hooking.

Slip-lasted no more. The NIAD Moccasym now has a board-lasted construction, which leaves the shoe sturdier than ever. This extra rigidity provides additional support, as well as lasting comfort on extended climbs.

Longer outsole life. Five Ten engineers opted to thicken the NIAD Moccasym’s sticky rubber outsole for longevity. In contrast, the Anasazi Moccasym’s was only 2 mm thick.

Additional info

  • This revamped Moccasym is but 1/3 of the NIAD family. Yes, it is joined by Five Ten’s NIAD VCS and NIAD Lace.
  • NIAD is an acronym for Nose in a Day—a rite of passage that climbers participate in on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

Rankings

How Five Ten NIAD Moccasym ranks compared to all other shoes
Bottom 20% neutral climbing shoes
All neutral climbing shoes
Bottom 13% Five Ten climbing shoes
All Five Ten climbing shoes
Bottom 13% indoor climbing shoes
All indoor climbing shoes

Popularity

The current trend of Five Ten NIAD Moccasym.
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