Verdict from 5 experts and 5 user reviews
5 reasons to buy
- Smedging genius: Critics say that the Five Ten Hiangle Pro allows for very fluid transitions from smearing to edging.
- Heel wonder: For staying on like glue, this shoe has the "best Five Ten heel to date,” says a professional reviewer.
- Sensitive: Its responsiveness, according to a gear pundit, is excellent, particularly on steep routes.
- Toe-hooking charmer: Just like most exemplary 5.10 climbing shoes, the Hiangle Pro has fantastic toeing capabilities.
- Glove-like: An expert finds the shoe’s no-dead-zone fit worthy of competitive climbing.
2 reasons not to buy
- Lackluster support: The Hiangle Pro may not be for beginners as it does not have the most reliable support system, an experienced climber-slash-blogger says.
- Costly: Its MSRP might catch many by surprise, but not in a good way.
Bottom line
Perhaps having “Pro” in its name is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the Hiangle Pro will allow you to “climb with both power and accuracy” (as said by professional climber Janja Garnbret). On the other hand, the shoe’s softness might demand too technical a footwork from those still wet behind the ears. That said, once you get a proper feel for this expensive piece, you will be far more in control through daring routes than ever before.
Tip: see the best climbing shoes.
Hiangle Pro: A tool for technique
Sending boulder projects, especially indoors, is the Hiangle Pro’s forte. And while it can be used for climbs rated 5.10 and under, it is one of those aggressive shoes that, arguably, shine the brightest in technique-demanding routes. The elements that give the Hiangle Pro’s name justice are as follows:
Wrap-around (a.k.a. no-edge) outsole. This is perhaps what makes the Hiangle Pro Hiangle Pro. By that, we mean the shoe in question has the unique ability to smear with minimal effort and then edge (even on crimps) with extra snappiness.
Sensitive midsole. The brainy shoemakers at Five Ten found a way to give this shoe a supportive yet barely-there forefoot platform. With it, you get sufficient support around the toes without taking away surface feel.
Flexible midfoot. Since the Hiangle Pro’s outsole is segmented, the shoe will let you pull off torsional or twisting maneuvers with less struggle. In other words, this characteristic makes lateral negotiations more engaging.
Additional info
- The 5.10 Hiangle Pro was designed with the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics in mind.