|Use:||Bouldering, Face, Overhang, Sport|
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89 / 100 based on 20 expert reviews
This has been my go-to for bouldering and hard sport climbing.
We're giving the Shaman a big thumbs-up; a solid upgrade.
While this model excels at steep climbing, it isn't our first choice for technical faces since it lacks sensitivity.
The Shaman is competitive on it’s merits alone, and it’s an even more compelling shoe once price is considered.
Personally, I would suggest you go for these shoes if you are looking for something comfortable that would last long and also perform strongly under all conditions. However, if smearing and slabbing is your top priority, then these will not be ideal.
As a performance gym climbing shoe or a shoe for longer sessions, these would be on my shortlist.
- Co-designed by Chris Sharma—a world-renowned professional rock climber and the establisher of the grade 5.15c, the Evolv Shaman is a climbing shoe engineered with a set of technologies that grants wearers the ability to take on steep ascents. It has been redesigned to provide enhanced comfort and fit as well as improved maneuverability involving the forefoot.
- It comes built with two Evolv-exclusive technologies: Love Bump and Knuckle Box. The former fills in dead space under the flex point of the toes, while the latter gives the knuckle of the big toe enough room for a curled position. Together, these two give climbers additional edging power.
- This Evolv offering is advertised as a vegan-friendly climbing shoe. Vegan products are built free of any animal substance—in some cases, even the tools and equipment with which they were created.
Downturn. The Shaman from Evolv is an aggressively downturned footgear. Its structure is even more pronounced with the Love Bump and Knuckle Box design technologies. It gives owners a sturdy foothold on small edges.
Applications. This intermediate climbing shoe is a product built mainly for sport climbing and bouldering. It is engineered to take on overhangs and edges. It may be used on both indoor and outdoor surfaces.
A low-top climbing shoe for men is the Evolv Shaman. Since its upper is synthetic, it offers little, or none at all, in the way of stretch. Wearers may personalize its fit using the shoe’s Velcro strapping system. A performance fit is delivered through its asymmetric shape. It has a tighter hug on the foot and curves toward the big toe.
Midsole. The Shaman has a sturdy platform for edging and like maneuvers thanks to its stiff midsole, called MX-P. Its half-length construction has a thickness of 1.6 mm. The Love Bump technology gives it a curved design at the forefoot, allowing the toes to curl into position without too much effort.
Outsole. Trax-SAS is the name of the Evolv Shaman’s sticky outsole. It is 4.2 mm in thickness. It has split construction, which gives the shoe sufficient flexibility around the arch zone. The compound used in it delivers tenacity over a wide range of temperatures.
The Evolv Shaman’s unlined upper is made of Synthratex VX which is entirely synthetic. It is furnished with molded VTR (Variable Thickness Rand)—a proprietary randing technology that lessens hotspots and pressure points without sacrificing performance and durability. Helping users to get in and out of it with convenience is the collaboration between the two heel pull loops and the split tongue. Three hook-and-loop straps make up its closure system.
Evolv has made strides in crafting quality rock climbing shoes over the years. Two of these compelling pieces of footwear are the Shaman—the featured shoe—and the Oracle. Find out the things that set them apart in the following points:
Midsole. Although both Evolv offerings have the same 1.6-mm thick MX-P midsole, only the Oracle comes with Dark Spine. This additional midsole component is placed at the heel for extra protection when heel hooking. It also helps in keeping the heel firmly in place.
Pricing. On this front, the Evolv Shaman edges out the Oracle. Indeed, the featured climbing shoe is about $15 less than the competition. If you are on a tight budget, check out some of the most affordable climbing kicks featured on this site.
Weight. Those who are quite particular with lightness might find the Evolv Oracle slightly more appealing. Certainly, compared with the Shaman, the rival shoe is lighter by about 15 grams.
-Chris Sharma is among the world’s best climbers. He is also a lead designer at Evolv.