Who should buy the Scarpa Instinct VSR

Dubbed by Scarpa as a more supple version of the Instinct VS, the Instinct VSR bridges the gap between intermediate problems and advanced routes. Buy it if:

  • Your go-to wall or rock has edges of different sizes.
  • Climbing shoes that smear like a boss are what you need.
  • Your then-favorite moderate rock shoe just died, and you need something immediately comfy.
  • The routes you like tackling have features that demand you to feel more than see.

Scarpa Instinct VSR A

Who should NOT buy it

For about $40 less, the Scarpa Veloce is a great alternative to the featured climbing shoe. And if you want a pair with no reported bleeding issues, the Scarpa Vapor V is for you.

Scarpa Instinct VSR BBB

A very tactile experience

Critics say that the Scarpa Instinct VSR climbing shoe has tons of sensitivity.

Scarpa Instinct VSR C

Straight-from-the-box plushness

Its level of comfort is through the roof, according to almost everyone who has reviewed the shoe. And the cherry on top? Its supply of suppleness is available right on day one.

Scarpa Instinct VSR D

A superstar on edges

Edging is one of the Instinct VSR's strongest suits, about a handful of experienced climbers say.

Scarpa Instinct VSR E

Scarpa Instinct VSR: Unapologetically pricey

With its $200-ish price tag, the Instinct VSR is a hard pass for the budget-conscious. To put things into perspective, moderate climbing shoes have an average price of $145.

Scarpa Instinct VSR G

Immensely sticky

Senders find the Instinct VSR amazingly grippy. One of them commended its heel grip more than anything for allowing him to heel-hook with such tenacity.

Scarpa Instinct VSR H

Gets you smearing like a champ

This remarkable rock climbing shoe smears quite well, says a professional blogger.

Scarpa Instinct VSR I

The Instinct VSR's double-edged upper

There are those who are quite fond of Scarpa Instinct VSR's beautiful aesthetics, calling it "a sight to behold." That said, some senders say that the shoe's stunning upper bleeds, so you might get an unwanted kind of attention when it does.

Scarpa Instinct VSR J

Scarpa Instinct VSR vs. La Sportiva Solution

The Instinct VSR is a proud member of Scarpa's growing lineup of intermediate climbing shoes. As such, many climb aficionados often pit it against other offerings across different brands. In this comparison, the featured product finds a rival in the La Sportiva Solution. The aspects that discuss their differences are as follows:

Price tag. Of the two climb-specific kicks, the Solution is the less expensive rock climbing shoe. Yes, it is cheaper than the featured shoe by approximately $20.

Camber profile. The Instinct VSR has a moderate downturn. The Solution, on the other hand, is categorized under La Sportiva’s aggressively downturned climbing shoes. If a more well-rounded performance is what you're after, go with the former. If you need more forefoot precision, especially on overhangs, the latter is the way to go.

Weight. In this area, the featured shoe from Scarpa has a clear advantage. Indeed, compared with its rival, the Instinct VSR is about 30 g lighter.

Outsole. Both climbing shoes in this comparison come with the same Vibram XS Grip 2 outsole. That said, the Scarpa Instinct VSR’s outsole is thinner than the Solution’s by about 0.5 mm.

Upper. The Scarpa Instinct VSR has a synthetic upper. Its competitor, on the other hand, has its main shell made of genuine leather. The La Sportiva Solution has a liner around the toe box and the arch region, whereas the Instinct VSR has none.

Midsole. The supportive Flexan midsole of the Scarpa Instinct VSR is thinner than the La Sportiva Solution’s LaspoFlex midsole by a mere 0.1 mm. This thinner sole construction renders the Instinct VSR more flexible.

Scarpa Instinct VSR vs

Facts / Specs

Weight: Men 8.1oz
Base model: Scarpa Instinct
Technology: Vibram
Construction: Board lasted
Closure: Velcro
Fit: Performance fit
Downturn: Moderate

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Scarpa Instinct VSR video reviews

Author
Teddy Dondanville
Teddy Dondanville

Teddy is a professionally trained Apprentice Rock Guide with the American Mountain Guides Association and a Wilderness First Responder with the National Outdoor Leadership School. Besides guiding outdoor rock climbing, Teddy also has years of experience in route setting and coaching climbing indoors. Through his guiding, route setting, and coaching, Teddy has experimented with climbing shoes for over a decade.