91
Great!
49 users: 4.4 / 5
7 experts: 87 / 100
Weight: Men 7.8oz / Women 7.1oz
Construction: Slip lasted
Closure: Lace-up
Fit: Performance fit

Verdict from 10 hours of research from the internet

7 reasons to buy

  • Gear pundits who have tested the Scarpa Instinct recommend the shoe highly for vertical ascents.
  • Its ability to send boulder problems is excellent, say many of those who have put this climb-centric Scarpa shoe through the wringer.
  • Some owners who have climbed in the Instinct praise its astonishing level of comfort.
  • This incredible rock climbing shoe is phenomenal when it comes to edging, according to several patrons who have tried it.
  • Less than a handful of those who have purchased the Scarpa Instinct say that it is impressively supportive.
  • It heel hooks quite admirably, say a couple of climbers who have sent projects in it.
  • A professional blogger who has reviewed the Instinct considers it a powerfully sensitive shoe.

3 reasons not to buy

  • An expert who has used this climber’s shoe numerous times says that its break-in period is quite lengthy.
  • The eyelets of this Scarpa climbing shoe rip apart easily, according to a very small number of wearers who have climbed in it. They blame this problem on the non-plated design of the eyelets.
  • It is ultra expensive.

Bottom line

When it comes to vertical and boulder climbing prowess, the Instinct is nothing short of amazing. This immensely comfortable Scarpa offering is also exemplary on edges, whether big or small.

The shoe, however, might not find an audience in senders who detest long break-in periods. Nonetheless, the Scarpa Instinct has more than enough merits to give it enough visibility on many a climber’s radars.

Tip: see the best climbing shoes.

Expert reviews:

User reviews:

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-The Instinct, which Scarpa advertises as the company’s most supportive piece in the Instinct line-up, is built for climbers who need extra precision in their footing. It comes equipped with features that render it capable of providing a well-rounded kind of performance.

-Wearers are promised increased reactivity in it thanks to the Instinct’s Bi-Tension rand system. This Scarpa-owned tech also keeps the shoe’s weight at a minimum while enhancing its climbing precision.

Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct is a moderately downturned climber’s shoe. This type of toe profile allows users to climb in comfort on ascents involving multiple pitches. It also enables owners to send projects using several different techniques.

Applications. The Instinct from Scarpa may be used mainly for bouldering and sport climbing. Its combination of features and technologies gives it the ability to scale vertical faces and crack-filled surfaces in the great outdoors. It is built primarily for intermediate senders.

A low-cut rock climbing shoe for men and women is the Scarpa Instinct. Since it is built around the FV last, its profile is curved and asymmetric. Users can expect a performance fit from this product. Its ghillie lacing provides climbing enthusiasts with a secure and personalized lockdown.

Midsole. The Scarpa Instinct grants sufficient support and underfoot protection with its stiff midsole, called Flexan. It comes at a thickness of 1 mm.

Outsole. On the surface traction front, the Instinct comes with the Vibram XS Edge outsole. Its overall thickness is 4 mm. It covers the forefoot and heel zones only, giving the shoe’s arch region a bit more flexibility.

This climbing piece from Scarpa has a 1.8-mm thick low-top upper. It is made of microsuede, which is synthetic. It comes without a liner, bringing the foot as close as possible to the surface for increased sensitivity. It has a heavy-duty rand around the forefoot which lends users extra grip and control when toe hooking and jamming. The upper’s heel section is reinforced with the Bi-Tension rand, protecting the shoe’s sides from abrasive hazards while cupping the wearer’s heel securely in place. Aiding the climber during on and off are the Scarpa Instinct’s pair of heel pull loops.

The Instinct’s fit management system uses regular eyelets without plating. Through them, a synthetic lace is set.

The Instinct is arguably one of Scarpa’s most wanted rock climbing shoes. As such, senders far and wide tend to compare it with some of La Sportiva’s high-quality climbing kicks. In this head-to-head, pitted against the featured shoe (also known as the Instinct) is the La Sportiva Genius. The points that follow will discuss the aspects that set the two apart.

Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct, as previously discussed, has a moderate downturn. The Genius, on the other hand, is an aggressively down-cambered climbing shoe.

Outsole. Both kicks sport outsoles from Vibram. That said, they do not share the same rubber compound. The Scarpa Instinct uses the XS Edge, while its rival uses the XS Grip 2. The one in the featured climbing shoe is also thicker than the one in the Genius by 1 mm.

Asking price. In this round, the Instinct gets to take the cake. While neither of the two competing products can be considered budget-friendly rock climbing shoes, the Instinct is cheaper than the La Sportiva Genius by about $10.

Target environment. The rock shoe from Scarpa is intended for outdoor use. Its competitor, on the other hand, may be used both indoors and outdoors.

Weight. On this front, choosing between the Instinct and the La Sportiva Genius should not be that complicated. This is because the difference in weight between the two is minuscule at best. Case in point: the featured Scarpa rock climbing shoe is only 1 g heavier than the rival aggressive shoe.

-This shoe has other versions. Among them is a velcro rock shoe.

Size and fit

True to size based on 67 user votes
Small (33%)
True to size (58%)
Large (9%)
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Size comments

Fits true to size, a 43 suctions onto my street shoe 10 feet excellently.. - Amazon
Fit
Tight Loose

How Instinct compares

This shoe: 91
All shoes average: 90
65 99
This shoe: $185
All shoes average: $149
$85 $195
This shoe: 7.8oz
All shoes average: 8.3oz
6oz 11.6oz