Summary

We spent 6.1 hours reading reviews from experts and users. In summary, this is what climbers think:

7 reasons to buy

  • Based on many expert reviews, La Sportiva Otaki is a superbly comfortable shoe for rock climbing. 
  • It is a great edging shoe, according to a considerable number of wearers.
  • Droves of climbers declare that they are delighted with the closure straps of the Otaki.
  • Several users love the versatile, all-around shoe feel of the Otaki from La Sportiva despite its aggressiveness.
  • A majority of wearers said that they recommend this rock climbing shoe to any boulderer.
  • The sticky rubber used in La Sportiva’s Otaki surprises a couple of pro climbers.
  • Plenty of reviewers are surprised with its comfiness right off the bat.

3 reasons not to buy

  • A small percentage of owners discover that it offers limited sensitivity.
  • La Sportiva’s Otaki is not so good in toe hooking, as declared by a few. 
  • It comes at a very high price.

Bottom line

Outdoorsy individuals seeking for an excellent pair of rock climbing shoes will surely enjoy the Otaki from La Sportiva. It is admired for its versatile feel and comfy interior. Climbers also find some of its qualities satisfying, including the closure straps, adherent rubber, and confidence-inspiring features.

However, it seems to be lacking in the areas of sensitivity and toe-hooking. By and large, the advantages of the La Sportiva Otaki climbing shoe outweigh the disadvantages, which are only reported by a small number.

Facts

Construction: Slip lasted
Closure: Velcro
Fit: Performance fit
Downturn: Aggressive
Environment: Indoor, Outdoor
Material: Leather, Synthetic, Vibram sole
Lining: Lined
Last Shape: Asymmetric
Stiffness: Medium stiff
Thickness: 4mm
Top: Low
Use: Sport, Overhang, Face
Features: Lightweight
Price: $180
Weight: Men: 7.7oz | Women: 6.2oz
Brand: La Sportiva
Colorways: Blue, Yellow
Size
Small True to size Large
Fit
Tight Loose
Durability 9/10
Comfort 10/10
Traction 8/10
Stickiness 9/10
See more facts

Expert Reviews

Experts are climbers, who post reviews at youtube, directly at RunRepeat or at their own websites. Each expert is categorized from level 1 to level 5 based on expertise. See stats on expert reviews and how we calculate scores here.

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91 / 100 based on 14 expert reviews

  • 100 / 100 | Outdoor Gear Exchange | | Level 2 expert

    It gives you a great low-volume fit option.

  • 93 / 100 | Hugo Hornshaw | Level 2 expert

    They're very stiff, but they got really good edging.

  • 86 / 100 | OutdoorGearLab | | Level 4 expert

    The Otaki takes our favorite aspects from our favorite La Sportiva models and puts them all into one versatile shoe that can edge smear, and jam with equal precision.

  • 95 / 100 | UKClimbing | | Level 3 expert

    If you're after something suitable for a wide range of rock types and disciplines, then the Otaki is a very strong contender. It's built to last, and comfortable, yet it offers a level of stiffness and support that few other boots can match.

  • 93 / 100 | Climbers Den | Level 3 expert

    I would personally call this a semi-aggressive shoe and as result, the fitting on the front might not be extremely tight or anything, but it will surely be enough to keep your forefoot well alert in situations.

  • 90 / 100 | BLISTER | | Level 3 expert

    The La Sportiva Otaki works really well as a single shoe to use both for technical face climbing and the occasional crack.

Become an expert

The Otaki from La Sportiva offers precision and power to overcome technical overhangs and edges. It carries the brand’s very own P3 technology (Permanent Power Platform) that permits the shoe to slip into tiny cracks effectively. The S-Heel design amplifies the heel-hooking ability of climbers, while the scuff-proof coating at the forefoot increases toe-hooking prowess.

Downturn. The Otaki from La Sportiva wears an aggressive downturn and an asymmetric shape. This design provides a high level of performance in a wide range of climbing disciplines. 

Applications. La Sportiva’s Otaki excels at technical edging and vertical overhanging terrain. Thanks to its precise design, it allows climbers to perform in different rock conditions.

La Sportiva Otaki is a rock shoe for men and women. The brand’s designers use two Velcro straps to customize the overall fit and volume fully. Its asymmetric last puts the foot into a curved position to drive power to the toes.

This product is shaped using the PD 75 last (same last used in designing La Sportiva’s Miura and Futura). The women’s version uses the WPD 75 that yields a more gender-specific fit. The lining used in the Otaki will limit the shoe’s stretch.

Midsole. This La Sportiva offering carries a 1.1 mm LaspoFlex midsole. This element provides stable support underfoot. It works with the brand’s patented P3 technology or the Permanent Power Platform that also helps maintain the shoe’s downturned profile.

Outsole. This rock climbing shoe has a 4 mm Vibram rubber outsole. The men’s Otaki comes with an XS Edge sole that optimizes edging ability and durability. It allows male climbers to focus their weight so they can hold even in the tiniest nubbins. Its compound is also developed to yield resistance against plastic deformation.

La Sportiva women’s Otaki, on the other hand, uses the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. This compound heightens friction; thus, it has a softer feel than the XS Edge. It also maximizes support and shape stability.

The upper of La Sportiva Otaki is a combination of suede leather and microfiber. Its interior has a Pacific lining (in front) for extra comfort. Its laser-cut construction method helps reduce stitching and bulk to optimize durability. 

Providing extra protection on every ascent is a rubber rand that wraps the base of the upper. Thanks to the S-Heel, compression at the heel is prevented. As a result, climbers can perform heel hooks effectively. The upper also comes with an abrasion-resistant coating in the toe area to make toe hooking easier.

The double Velcro closures assist in fit management. Pull tabs are attached at the back of the shoe and top of the tongue for quick on and off.

La Sportiva has a wide range of rock climbing shoes, and two of the sought-after models are the Otaki and Miura. Listed below are some of their differences and similarities.

Upper. Both La Sportiva products come with a leather upper. The Otaki has a Pacific lining in the front area only (see Upper section above for more details). On the other hand, the Miura has a Dentex-lined leather upper. 

Midsole. These offerings from La Sportiva use a 1.1 mm LaspoFlex midsole. A point goes to the Otaki in this section as its underfoot performance is further enhanced by the brand’s very own Permanent Power Platform (P3) technology.

Outsole. These La Sportiva rock shoes carry a Vibram rubber outsole. Their men’s and women’s variant employs XS Edge and XS Grip 2, respectively. The former is developed for optimal edging and durability. The latter is a softer compound that gives a high level of stickiness.

Other innovative features. The La Sportiva Otaki wears the trademarked S-Heel construction that promotes heel-hooking maneuverability and enhances rearfoot fit. The La Sportiva Miura, on the other hand, carries a Slingshot Rand that is tied into the Powerhinge on the sole for maximum adherence even on the smallest footholds.

  • Climbers who want budget-friendly kicks may also look at rock climbing shoes from Black Diamond.

Comparison