|Material:||Leather, Vibram sole|
|Use:||Bouldering, Sport, Overhang, Face|
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93 / 100 based on 16 expert reviews
I really like this shoe.
You absolutely cannot dismiss these until you've tried them.
The Genius is more about performance than comfort, with its downturned toe. Still, for those with narrow feet, the Genius will meet that sweet spot of comfort and performance.
A synergy of multiple concepts and technologies, the Genius is worthy of the high praise (and the hefty price tag) it has been given.
The Genius tends to have everything that you could possibly ask for in a climbing shoe.
The only downside of the Genius could well be its high price. Beyond that, this shoe excels at all styles and angles of climbing.
The La Sportiva Genius is built with brand-exclusive features that allow climbers to send projects with enhanced performance. Its slip-lasted construction doubles down on sensitivity.
It is built with two La Sportiva technologies: P3 (also known as Permanent Power Platform) and No-Edge. The former grants extra arch support, while the latter gives climbers improved edging capabilities. The No-Edge technology also enhances the shoe’s structural integrity, thereby upping its durability.
Downturn. The Genius is among La Sportiva’s collection of aggressively downturned rock climbing footwear. Its down-cambered shape is maintained by the shoe’s P3 technology. This particular downturn is ideal for single-pitch ascents where toe/forefoot precision is required.
Applications. This climb-exclusive offering from La Sportiva is intended for sport climbing and bouldering. It comes with components that make it a sufficient tool to ascend both steep and vertical routes. It may be used both indoors and outdoors.
The La Sportiva Genius is a below-the-ankle climbing shoe for men. A personalized and secure lockdown in it is courtesy of the shoe’s ghillie lacing. Its asymmetrical shape keeps the foot in a curved position for a performance fit.
Unlined rock shoes like the Genius generally stretch up to one full size. Note that a few testers mention that it will stretch up to a half size.
Midsole. The La Sportiva Genius uses the LaspoFlex midsole with P3 technology to give climbers as much underfoot support as possible in their ascent to the top. 1.1 mm is its overall thickness.
Outsole. Wearers get their ample supply of traction from the Genius’ XS Grip 2 outsole. Its designers opted to give it a thickness of 3 mm. It has the ability to provide adequate grip on different types of features, especially on overhangs.
The low-top upper of the La Sportiva Genius is made with a combination of suede leather and microfiber. It has no liner, allowing the foot to make full contact with the shoe for increased sensitivity. The rand that covers a portion of its forefoot offers abrasion protection and extra security when dealing with tricky pockets. The inner side of the toe box comes engineered with the outsole’s extension, rendering the shoe capable of toe-hooking maneuvers.
Its lacing system has mainly lace tunnels for eyelets. Set through them is a cord-like synthetic lace. Over at the shoe’s heel are two pull tabs for easy on and off.
The Genius is one of La Sportiva’s high-quality climbing kicks, thanks to its combination of features coupled with the climbing community’s approval of it. That said, its prestige is somewhat shared by another La Sportiva shoe—the Futura. While both footwear products are part of the brand’s aggressive roster, they differ in a handful of aspects. The following points will put into perspective the things that set the Genius apart from the Futura:
Closure system. The La Sportiva Genius gives climbers a secure and customized lockdown with its lace-up closure. The Futura, on the other hand, provides the same thing but with an adjustable strap engineered with hook-and-loop fasteners.
Price. While neither of the shoes in this head-to-head will win any awards in the affordability category, the rival shoe takes the cake in this round. Yes, the Futura has a price tag that is about $10 cheaper than the Genius.
Weight. The weight difference between the Genius and the Futura is arguably minimal at best. That said, weight purists would find more satisfaction in the featured shoe as it is lighter than its competitor by about 5 grams.
Target crowd. The La Sportiva Genius is exclusively a men’s rock climbing shoe. The Futura, on the other hand, has men and women variants.
Upper. Although both kicks from La Sportiva are low-top offerings with no liners, only the Genius’ upper is made of genuine leather. The leather-looking sections of the Futura’s upper are synthetic.
Perforations. On this front, the La Sportiva Genius bags the crown. While both products have breathable holes in their tongues, the featured shoe has more of them, making it a more enticing investment for wearers who sweat a lot.