5.10 NIAD VCS: Anasazi VCS redefined

This section’s header should be telling enough: The NIAD VCS is the reimagining of the Anasazi VCS. At first glance, they look strikingly identical. That being said, they do have distinctive qualities, the most notable of which are listed below.

Downturn

The NIAD VCS is as flat as camber-less rock shoes go, offering more than enough comfort on multi-pitch climbs. Its predecessor, on the other hand, had a moderate downturn, which makes mounting on micro-edges easier.

Liner

Five Ten engineers did away with the Anasazi VCS’ liner in the NIAD VCS. Translation: An unlined climbing shoe usually delivers more sensitivity and flexibility at the possible expense of extra upper cushioning.

Alignment

Unlike the Anasazi VCS’ asymmetric shape, the NIAD VCS has a straight construction. This kind of engineering trades toeing power for enhanced smearing prowess.

Toe patch

The minuscule toe patch seen in the Anasazi VCS has been vastly improved in the NIAD VCS. Yes, the featured shoe’s sticky toe rubber covers almost the entire forefoot, which should give you more toe-hooking coverage.

Additional info

  • NIAD actually stands for “Nose in a Day.” Nose is a popular big wall on El Capitan, which climbers all over the world attempt to send “in a day” as a rite of passage.
  • Five Ten launched the NIAD VCS alongside two other kicks: The NIAD Moccasym and the NIAD Lace.

Facts / Specs

Weight: Men 9.1oz / Women 6.9oz
Closure: Velcro
Fit: Comfort fit
Downturn: Neutral
Environment: Indoor, Outdoor
Material: Fabric/Textile, Synthetic
Lining: Unlined

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Author
Javin Hung
Javin Hung

I am passionate about maintaining an active lifestyle. I’ve been running and playing tennis since high school. In the last 5 years, I’ve picked up weight lifting and bouldering as part of my regular fitness routine. You can usually find me hitting the weights or rock walls at the gym, or trying out a new sport.