Who should buy the Five Ten Dragon

The Five Ten Dragon is a decent climbing companion, all thanks to its collection of send-worthy strengths. It is a solid option if:

  • Precision on steep routes is high on your sending must-have list.
  • Climbing shoes that deliver multi-directional grip are what you're after.
  • You need a shoe that grants enhanced efficiency on tricky edges.

Five Ten Dragon logo

Who should NOT buy it

Skip the Five Ten Dragon for the La Sportiva Kataki if you prefer a pair that you can put on easily. And if you need something far more long-lasting rand-wise, consider the Chimera from Scarpa.

Five Ten Dragon no

Takes the W in surface traction

Reviewers are quite floored by the grip performance of the Five Ten Dragon. A professional gear blogger hails its outsole as "super sticky Five Ten rubber."

Speaking of the brand's proprietary outsole, a.k.a. the Stealth HF, its thickness is 4.2 mm. Its engineering makes it a sensitive component, especially on edges.

Five Ten Dragon outsole

Extraordinary sensitivity in the 5.10 Dragon

Senders are in love with the fantastic responsiveness the Five Ten Dragon provides. Because of this, a footgear critic calls the featured kick "one of the most sensitive of all the down-turned shoes we tested."

This level of sensitivity makes scaling steep rock feel more organic. It also makes smearing a whole lot more reassuring.

Five Ten Dragon midsole

Five Ten Dragon: An edging wiz

The super-downturned Five Ten Dragon stuns with its edging prowess. A footwear maven is very confident with it, describing the shoe as "better for tiny pockets or very thin edges." The same tester also calls the Dragons "the best shoes at extreme edging." 

Five Ten Dragon upper

Gives you uber-confidence in pockets

Slots and dimples are a cakewalk for the Five Ten Dragon, according to experienced climbers. A professional reviewer among them says that the gear in question "works great for getting purchase in tiny pockets."

Five Ten Dragon slot

Not very easy to wear

Despite its triple straps, the featured climbing shoe seems to be rather challenging to get on. A seasoned sender-slash-blogger says that, when it comes to on and off, "they take longer than a slip-on or Velcro." 

Five Ten Dragon easy to wear

Sticky but not very durable

There are those who are stoked by the adhesiveness of the Dragon's randing. That said, its durability is a different story. Reviewers find it flimsy, thinning or blowing out way too soon.

Five Ten Dragon rand

No looseness in the Five Ten Dragon

While there's a discussion about the default snug fit of the Dragon, it's the shoe's shape retention that shines the brighter. A considerable number of senders say that the featured climbing shoe doesn't let go of the tightness of its confines. Yes, looseness is not a thing in the 5.10 Dragon, it seems.

Facts / Specs

Weight: Men 7.2oz
Closure: Lace-up
Fit: Performance fit
Downturn: Aggressive
Environment: Indoor, Outdoor
Material: Synthetic
Lining: Lined

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Five Ten Dragon video reviews

Author
Teddy Dondanville
Teddy Dondanville

Teddy is a professionally trained Apprentice Rock Guide with the American Mountain Guides Association and a Wilderness First Responder with the National Outdoor Leadership School. Besides guiding outdoor rock climbing, Teddy also has years of experience in route setting and coaching climbing indoors. Through his guiding, route setting, and coaching, Teddy has experimented with climbing shoes for over a decade.